Beginning to hunt with a muzzleloader may seem overwhelming. At first, because of the variety of muzzleloaders, bullets, scopes, powders, and other accessories. The equipment needed to start hunting can be expensive. The regulations regarding what is legal to use can vary from state to state, which makes the already challenging situation more complicated.
When starting out with muzzleloader hunting, knowing where to begin and what gear can be overwhelming. Laws and regulations can vary by state, so understanding what is legal to use in your state is essential.
I started hunting with a muzzleloader about 5 years ago. As I considered trying something new, and I decided to give muzzleloading hunting a shot. It’s a terrific way to extend my deer hunting season and check out some spots that aren’t open to centerfire rifles. I knew little about muzzleloaders when I started, so it was initially challenging.
Fortunately, my first season was a big success, and I learned a lot.
I have had a few different muzzleloaders over the past several years and have done lots of research and testing at home, on the range, and while hunting in the woods. I now understand what is effective and what is not in the world of muzzleloading guns, and I will share that information with you in this article.
One major factor distinguishing the types of muzzleloaders on the market is the ignition system. There are three common types of ignition systems: flintlock, caplock, and inline.
The trigger has the same function as the lock on a muzzleloader.
The mechanism that sets off the powder charge in a muzzleloader is called the lock, regardless of the type (flintlock, percussion cap, etc.). The action is the part of the gun that allows the gun to be fired.
The flintlock ignition system is the oldest type of muzzleloader ignition system used since the 1600s. The flintlock muzzleloaders were popular in the 18th and early 19th centuries. The Kentucky and Pennsylvania Rifles are two examples of this type of gun. A flintlock works by using a piece of flint on the hammer. The flint then hits a steel frizzen, which creates a shower of sparks. The sparks generated by the Flintlock mechanism ignite a small charge of gunpowder sitting in a pan outside the barrel, which then causes the firearm to discharge. The powder ignites the main powder charge in the rifle’s bore through a vent hole, which causes the rifle to fire.
While a flintlock may work well if properly maintained, it may be less reliable in wet weather conditions. Shooters who use flintlock firearms must also understand the risk of a small amount of black powder igniting in their faces. Many hunters still enjoy using flintlock muzzleloaders even though they are not popular today.
A caplock muzzleloader uses a percussion cap. It is on a hollow nipple on the side of the muzzleloader for ignition. When the hammer hits the cap, a spark goes down a vent to the main propellant charge. A caplock muzzleloader is more reliable than a flintlock because it doesn’t have as big of a delay in between firing. The three main types of muzzleloaders used during the Civil War were the Hawken rifle, the Springfield, and the Enfield. They were all caplock muzzleloaders. Most modern muzzleloaders either use a #11 cap or a musket cap, which is larger and more powerful.
About a few decades ago, the first inline muzzleloaders were created. An inline muzzleloader’s nipple is located at the back of the powder charge instead of on the side. This allows for faster, more reliable ignition. Some inline muzzleloaders use a musket cap, like the CVA Northwest line. Most inline muzzleloaders use a 209 primer, producing a more powerful spark than the #11 or musket cap. This makes the ignition more reliable and allows the use of a broader range of fuels. Hunters in the United States commonly use inline muzzleloaders using 209 primers because they are easy to use and reliable.
Muzzleloaders are made to be used with black powder or substitutes such as Pyrodex, Hodgdon’s Triple Seven, and Blackhorn 209. Do not use any amount of smokeless powder in any muzzleloader. It is hazardous and could lead to death, serious injury, or significant damage to your muzzleloader.
The black powder comes in different particle sizes, from Fg to FFFFg. The coarsest granulation is Fg, while the finest is FFFFg. The most common size used as a primary charge in most muzzleloading rifles is FFg. FFFg is used in small-bore rifles or pistols, while FFFFg is commonly used as a priming charge for flintlocks.
It is easier to ignite black powder than to ignite black powder substitutes. The most popular fuel used in flintlock and caplock muzzleloaders is black powder. Black powder has several disadvantages: It is filthy and corrosive. You must precisely measure each powder load for each shot. Obtaining black powder can be challenging due to the strict regulations retailers must follow for shipping and storing it.
Black powder substitutes tend to be much easier to find. Even though they typically produce more smoke than smokeless powder and usually require less cleaning than black powder. They can also be found in pellets that have been measured in advance, which makes loading faster and easier.
But, you know, substitutes for black powder can be a pain to light up. They’re way better for inline muzzleloaders that use 209 primers than for #11 or musket caps. If you try to light ’em up with something else, you’re likelier to have a misfire or hangfire.
You should consult the manual of your muzzleloader before firing it to see what kind and amount of fuel the manufacturer recommends. It is vital to ensure accuracy and reliability for safety reasons. Suppose you use too much powder or the wrong type of powder in your muzzleloader. Trust me, if you don’t use the correct ignition method, you’re gonna have a bad time. You could hurt yourself or someone else and even damage your muzzleloader.
There are several different bullets designed for muzzleloaders. The most straightforward bullet is a traditional lead ball. Full-bore conical bullets are a great option if you want a bullet that will pack a powerful punch. The Thompson Center Maxi-Hunter and PowerBelt are two full-bore conical bullets that pack a serious punch. If you’re looking for extra speed, try using a saboted bullet like the Barnes T-EZ. It’s smaller than the bore diameter and fits in a plastic sleeve that falls off in flight. So, if you’re shooting a .45 caliber bullet from a .50 caliber muzzleloader, a saboted bullet is perfect for you.
However, the bullet that is right for you depends on the rifling twist of your muzzleloader. A muzzleloader with a 1:66 twist is only accurate with round balls. The rifling in this gun is very slow, so it won’t be able to stabilize conical bullets very well. 1:28 twist stabilizes conical bullets, sabots, and round balls. Consult your muzzleloader’s corresponding manual to learn the rifling twist and brake. Additionally, observe which bullets are recommended for your muzzleloader.
Before you go hunting, check the hunting regulations for your state because they can vary a lot. States like California require the use of lead-free bullets. The state of Idaho requires that only bullets made entirely of lead or lead alloy can be used, with no jacketing or sabotaging.
Recommended Muzzleloaders for Beginners
If you want an easy-to-use muzzleloader that just flat out works, here are some great options:
- CVA Wolf – Simple inline I’ve used for years with excellent results on hunting deer. Affordable too.
- T/C Impact – Same idea as the Wolf, with a bit more accuracy potential. Hard to beat for the price.
- Remington 700 Ultimate Muzzleloader – Highly advanced inline pushing long range performance to new levels. Excellent but expensive.
There are plenty more good muzzleloader brands out there like Traditions, Henry, and others. But the ones above are proven winners that are reasonably affordable for beginners.
The most important thing is getting some hands-on practice to learn your chosen gun and find the right load. Then get out in the woods and make some smoke! Muzzleloader hunting is extremely addicting once you get the hang of it.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I’m happy to share more of my experience getting started with these awesome guns. They really do extend your season and open up new hunting possibilities.
Captain Hunter is a seasoned hunting mentor with over 20 years of experience in the field. His passion began as a young man on trips with his father and grandfather in the Colorado mountains. Today, he shares his unmatched skills in survival, tracking, and marksmanship through his website CaptainHunter.com. When he's not volunteering with youth hunting programs, you can find Captain Hunter providing expert hunting tips, gear reviews, and answers to your most pressing questions. His decades of experience make him the trusted guide to help any outdoorsman master the sport.