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Step By Step Guide to Successfully Field Dressing a Deer

Are you new to deer hunting and are worried about field dressing a deer for the first time? This final step is one that many hunters dread having to do since this is where the real work seems to begin. It can be difficult when you are first learning because it is not something that you do or practice regularly. Field dressing only needs to be done when you have killed a deer.

Field dressing a deer can be a challenge if you are unfamiliar with how it is done. There are a number of things that can go wrong and can potentially cause you to lose a significant amount of useable meat unless done properly. The good news is that once you have seen how it is done, the actual task of field dressing a deer is not difficult. It may take a few times to become as efficient as possible, but you should have no trouble cleaning you next kill.

However, if you follow these steps and have a little patience (and a sharp knife!) you will soon be able to properly field dress a deer with no problem. Once you sharpen these skills this is a quick task that becomes easier every time you do it.

What You’ll Need

Apart from a deer to gut, there are some key items you will need in order to make this process easy and efficient. While the items in this list aren’t the only tools used to field dress a deer, they are the ones you will find most useful when following the steps detailed below. There are also several tools that are designed specifically for gutting a deer that may make part of this process even easier. You can often find knives, saws, and kits that are built with cleaning a deer in mind.

Our Favorite Deer Gutting Kit

This pack comes equipped with a caping knife, gut hook skinner, boning/fillet knife, wood & bone saw, tungsten carbine v-sharpener, steel stick/brisket spreader, and game cleaning gloves. Below are additional items you may need for field dressing a deer.

• Hunting tag with string already attached
• Recently sharpened knife
• Bone saw
• Disposable plastic gloves
• Dark colored rag
• Rope
• Large plastic bag

Photo credit: Shootingtime.com

Steps to Successfully Field Dress a Deer

To have the best chance for field dressing a deer, you should follow the following steps:

Step One:

Ensure the deer is indeed dead. Approach the animal from the rear and look for any signs of life. If possible, poke the animal in the eye with a long stick in order to ensure it is actually dead. Deliver a killing blow at this point if needed. This is not typically an issue but for safety sake we want to make sure this is done properly.

After the kill is confirmed, make sure to unload and safely store your firearm or weapon. People get injured every year because of unsafe weapon handling, you don’t want to be one of those people.

 Next position the deer on its back with the head pointed uphill if possible. If you shot a buck it is much easier to keep the head straight when the deer is on it’s back because you can rest it on the antlers. Positioning the head uphill from you will make each step in gutting the deer easier as well. It helps when you are pulling out the inside of the deer and draining it. The guts and organs inside of a deer weigh more than you may think so letting gravity help you is very beneficial.

Step Two:

Tag your kill according to local policy. You are then going to want to remove any clothing you want to avoid getting blood on. Mark your position in the field by hanging a blaze orange marker either above or close to your location. The orange helps with safety, especially during firearms season.

Next you should lay out your necessary tools in a place where they are easily accessible and won’t be misplaced. Put a pair of disposable gloves on prior to going any further. You will realize this once you begin working, but it can be a little difficult to hold and control all of the deer as you are field dressing it. This is why you should have all your tools in arms reach once you start. The deer will want to roll over and move as soon as you let go.

All cutting or gutting tools should be within arms reach to make this process easier. You also don’t want to be reaching into a hunting pack or your pockets with bloody hands.

Photo credit: Shootingtime.com

Step Three:

Using your knife, make a small incision at the base of the sternum. Make sure the blade of your knife is pointed up to help avoid any unnecessary wear and tear to the blade. Only cut deep enough into the cavity to pierce the hide and the initial layer of fat. The easiest way to do this is to pinch a small amount of skin and pull it up and then cut across it rather than just pushing down through the skin into the stomach/sternum area. This helps it cut easier and avoids cutting too deep.

 Avoid cutting any internal organs throughout this process unless otherwise instructed to do so. If you cut through the stomach you could end up ruining part of the meat and at the very least it will smell very bad.

You should also be sure to pull the hair back before you start cutting. This will help avoid tons of white hair ending up everywhere as you cut through it. Once covered in blood that hair will stick to everything.

Insert two fingers into the incision to help guide your knife and keep the hide in a taut V. This makes it easier to cut and will also keep your fingers out of harms way. Go a few inches at a time and go slowly. This helps keep the incision straight and makes sure you do not cut yourself. There are also some knives that are built in a small hook shape to help with this. You just insert them into the original incision and pull down like a zipper.

Our Favorite Deer Gutting Hook

Continue the incision down to either the base of the penis or the udder. If a buck, cut around the penis and down to just above the anus. If a doe, cut around the udder and down to just above the vagina/anus. Be careful to avoid cutting the bladder.

Step Four:

Now you will need to cut the esophagus to start removing the upper organs. There are two ways to do this. You can either reach up in the chest cavity as far as possible and cut through it, or you can use a knife or saw to cut up through the sternum to expose the rest of the chest cavity.

As long as it is not a trophy buck, the easiest way to to cut the sternum. To do this, start near your original incision and cut up on either side of the sternum. It will be tough but a strong knife or small saw will have no issues going through the cartilage.

Once the chest cavity is exposed, reach up as far as you can into the top/throat area and grab the esophagus. You will be able to pull it away from the wall of the neck to help cut all the way through. Once you have cut through it, you can start to pull. The esophagus will peel away from the sides of the deer as you pull it down.

Now you can cut through the diaphragm, which is the large membrane separating the chest cavity from the intestinal area. Make cuts to the connective membranes preventing the organs from being removed.  At this point most of the organs should be loose enough to pull out. Grab a hold of the esophagus or any other strong membrane and start to pull or roll the guts out of the deer.

The lower organs will still be attached down near the pelvis and the anus. This all needs to be severed carefully to avoid getting waste or urine on the meat. There are several different methods for doing this.

One way is to make an incision around the anus and vagina (if necessary) from the outside. Once you have fully cut free these items, carefully push them back into the cavity of the deer. Both the large intestine and the bladder can now be successfully removed from the deer and be pulled out with the rest of the guts.

Another way is to just use a small bone saw to cut through the pelvic bone so you don’t have to pull anything back through that small cavity. This allows you to just rip or cut everything out as one piece.

If this last part doesn’t go well or gets messy, don’t worry. It takes everyone a few tries to figure out the best way to do it. In the end all that matters is that you got all the organs, guts, and bladder/anus pieces out as well as any waste. If you think you spilled any urine or waste on the inside of the deer be sure to clean it off.

There are many different techniques for field dressing a deer and everyone has their preference. Hopefully this gave you a great starting point to work from. We have included a video below to help show one method for field dressing a deer. Feel free to make small changes in the process to make it as easy for you as you’d like. The most important thing is that at the end everything has been removed and the inside is clean.

See How Steven Renella likes to field dress a deer. As you see, some of his steps are slightly different than ours but the principle is the same.

Step Five:

Once all the deer’s internal organs have been removed, use the large plastic bag to safely store the heart, liver, and other organs you wish to keep. Next, tip the deer on its stomach to help remove any remaining blood or other debris. If you have cut through the pelvic bone the lifting up or raising the front half of the deer will help any left over blood drain our very quickly.

After this, gather your belongings, secure a rope to the deer’s legs and drag it to a secure area to continue the butchering process. Here is a quick tip on dragging. When you tie the rope to the deer, tie it’s front legs up with the neck. If you just tie the rope around the neck then the front legs will keep getting caught on branches and logs as well as hit your feet and trip you. Tying them up with the neck makes it much easier to drag.

Check this article to learn about tracking wounded deer if you want to learn more about how to find a deer.

Conclusion

It is highly important that you process your deer as soon as possible in order to avoid damage to the meat. The steps needed in order to properly field dress a deer can vary based upon preferred methods, but the above steps are a proven way to do it safely and with minimal cuts needed.

We here at CaptainHunter.com hope that you found this guide to be of value to you as you pursue your hunting goals. We not only believe in what we post but practice it as well.

Have a different method for field dressing a deer or have more questions regarding one of the above steps? Let us know below and as always…feel free to share our posts with other dedicated hunters.

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The Fundamentals of Catching Coyotes | 5 Useful and Effective Tips

First thing’s first, what are coyotes and why do you want to get rid of them? Coyotes are canids native to North America that are very much like wolves and are considered predatory. Why do you want to trap them? Although it can happen, coyotes rarely attack people. However, coyotes can be a problem for livestock and domestic pets, especially if you own a farm with animals. In this article, I will be talking about how to trap a coyote in the most efficient way possible.

Now, let’s lay some groundwork down first. What do you need to trap a coyote? Depending on your method, you will need a few trapping devices like the coil-spring trap or a live cage trap. Keep in mind that depending on your state, there will be varying laws and regulations regarding hunting and trapping, so check that first before doing anything else.

When you’ve got your trapping mechanism, where do you place it? You need to be very observant. Determine the area where the coyote is causing the damage and determine the path it travels often. Look for tracks, animal remains, and disturbed dirt under fences. At these areas, lay down a couple of traps.

Here are a few tips to make your work more efficient – How to trap a coyote:

1. Use the appropriate trap

There are many different kinds of traps you can choose from. Each trap offers a different way to catch an animal. The type of hunting style will determine which trap is needed. Below are three of the most popular trap styles to catch a coyote.

Coil Spring Trap

This trap is recommended by many hunters. It is easy to hide and essentially traps a coyote’s paw without killing it. Make sure your trap is large and strong enough for the coyote you’re targeting; otherwise they might escape from the trap. The coil spring trap above is recommended for catching coyotes. There are half a dozen traps included in the package. The trap has a 5.25 jaw spread, a quick reaction, and a strong hold. This trap will catch a coyote and will hold on to it. Pro tip: do not use the coil spring trap if you’re a beginner. When it comes to dealing with the trapped coyote, you may not have enough knowledge on what to do next.

Live Cage Trap

Although it has been regarded as a less successful trapping device, a live cage trap will catch the animal in a cage. Once the coyote is caught, a professional can deal with the problem for you. However, you need to place this in the most strategic area and provide the proper bait. This is recommended if you do not want to kill the animal afterwards. This tomahawk original series rigid trap is large enough and designed to catch coyotes. There are two top handles on the cage for safe and comfortable holding. The cage also features a safe sliding rear door for easy release.

Snare Trap

Another option is the use of lethal traps. The most recommended lethal trap is the snare, wherein a coyote will be choked by the loop of the cord. Naturally, a coyote will pull away from the chokehold and thus tighten the grip. The above 12 pack is designed for coyote catching. Each snare is 60 inches in length. These snare traps are easy to use, loaded for speed, and they trap legally. There are two methods in using a snare trap. One way is to create a slip knot with the loop and anchor it to a nearby tree or fence. A second way is to run a small chain through the loop and anchor the chain around a tree. Whichever method is used, the snare will reliably come down quickly and capture the animal when the snare is hit.

Remember: when choosing your trap, check with the local laws regarding this matter to make sure your trap is appropriate to use.

2. Place your traps in a hole

This is so that your traps are well-hidden from the predators. With a trowel, dig a shallow hole about 8-inches deep at a 45 degree angle, place your trap and cover it well with dirt or hay/leaves. You can use the hole set-up for the coil-spring and snare traps.

To make this trap as efficient as possible, dig the hole in the area that the coyote frequents. Pro tip: you may also want to add live bait near the hole. Live bait will attract coyotes more than dead bait.

Coyote caught in a trap

3. Get rid of your scent

Most coyotes will stay away from a trap when they detect a human scent. When setting up your traps, wear thick, scent-free rubber gloves to avoid leaving your scent. It is also best to make sure that your traps are clean and oil-free to make it devoid of any scent.

Another thing you can do is spray a little bit of apple cider in the area to get rid of the human scent. This tip will make sure your trap is more efficient and be able to lure the predator well.

4. Consider alternative methods

If your coyote problem is mild, or if you don’t want to kill the animal, you may opt to choose alternative methods to avoid coyotes from loitering in your area.

• First thing you can do is make sure there is no food in your area that can attract coyotes. This can be pet food, garbage, and compost piles. What you need to do is make sure your garbage is properly covered and there are not pet food bowls lying around if you don’t want any coyotes getting near them.
• Secondly, you can scare coyotes whenever you see them, but this can be a dangerous option and should not be done when a coyote is too near. For example, you can yell at them while waving your hands around, or use a loud horn to scare them off. It may take a few tries for the coyote to learn to avoid your area.
• If you have livestock or a pet that are vulnerable to coyotes, set up fencing around your house or around the area for your livestock. Some coyotes can jump over fencings, so make sure that your fences are high enough to keep the coyotes away.

Coyotes are attracted to pet food bowls

5. After you’ve caught the coyote, determine the most appropriate action

You’ve caught the coyote pestering your area with your trap, now what?

• Pro tip: it is of utmost importance that you wear thick clothing and gloves when removing a coyote. Coyotes have rabies and diseases that can be passed to you through bites or scratches. However, when you are a complete novice, it is best to call in wildlife control to remove the animal for you.

When getting rid of the coyote, again, check with the local rules and regulations before deciding what to do. Some states will have the coyote euthanized, but you can also opt to take it to a wildlife reserve. Most hunters/trappers will shoot the animal once caught, but make sure that this is legal in your state before doing so.

And there you have it! These are just a few tips on how to trap a coyote and some on how to avoid coyotes, and you can scour the Internet for more to make sure your trapping method is correct. Important: Keep in mind that coyotes are dangerous animals and will attack when provoked.

If you are a beginner wanting to try trapping the animal, keep in mind the safety procedures as well as the laws in your state regarding this matter. On the other hand, if you are not a hunter whatsoever and just want to get rid of your coyote problem, call in wildlife control and/or follow tip no. 4.

For a detailed tutorial on how to set up a hole trap (with a foot hold trap), watch this video:

Do you have any questions, comments, or stories on your own hunting/trapping experiences? Let me know in the comments below. Share this page if you liked the article and send it to a friend you know with a coyote problem, too! Good luck hunting!

You can read about Coyote Fast Facts here!​

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Three Easy Steps On How To Bleach A Deer Skull

As a hunter, it is very meaningful for us to have a remembrance of our catch. After filling ourselves with its delicious meat, after storing all the best proteins we can get, we would want something that would remind us of our great hunting experience and of our great feat. One thing we enjoyed having after catching a deer is a nice white skull for a trophy.

Some hunters bring it to a taxidermist to have it cleaned for them while some find it more fulfilling to clean and bleach their own trophies. Some, on the other hand, just wanted to save money. Some hunters may have already mastered bleaching a deer skull but some may not.

Are you just new in deer hunting and wanted to experience the rewarding feeling of preparing your own trophy? Have you been paying for a taxidermist all this time and wanted to try to bleach your own deer skull for a change? Do you want to save money from paying somebody to clean your trophy for you? Let me help you with that. Here are some easy steps on how to bleach a deer skull. But before we proceed, let us first discuss some things that you need to know about bleaching a deer skull.

We understand some of you may want a quicker process and have seen kit out there on the market. Most kits out there that claim to make the process much quicker and yield similar results so they may be worth your investment. If you are interested in one of these kits we decided to list our recommendation below for your convenience. The kit below has enough material included to bleach two deer skulls. This kit will finish the bleaching process in a day.

Three Ways of Cleaning a Deer Skull

Cold Water Maceration

In this method, you will have to soak the skull in water of approximately 90 degrees F temperature until there is no remaining flesh in the skull. If you want to help remove grease from the skull you may add 2 tablespoons of laundry detergent per gallon of water. In order to lessen the foul odor, you should occasionally change the water with a fresh one. This process may take several weeks to around two months. After soaking, you should remove all the remaining flesh and soak it again for 24 hours to get rid of the foul smell. This method does not damage or shrink the deer skull but is a very slow process.

Cold Water Maceration – Photo credit: missouriwhitetails.com

Hot Water Maceration

This method simply speeds up the maceration process. For this process, you will have to soak the skull in boiling water with ¼ cup sodium carbonate per gallon of water for several minutes. “Cooking” the skull softens the tissues which allows you to easily remove them. This process is fast but may cause the skull to shrink. The materials needed during the hot water maceration process are listed below.

Hot Water Maceration – Photo credit: wp.com

Dermestid Beetles

Dermestid beetle larvae are actually pretty easy to come by, and they have a voracious appetite for the fleshy bits left on your prize. The actual beetles are rather small and unassuming, and don’t eat much – however, their larval stage (which somewhat resembles a silverfish crossed with a mealworm) is ravenous.

To clean your skull for bleaching, all you need to do is place it in a covered container large enough to hold it comfortably, with screened air holes for ventilation. Add your beetles and larvae, then you can just check-in on their progress over the next several days until it’s as clean as you want it.

You can keep the dermestid beetles in that tub, feeding them carrion or food scraps, for your next project. If you do not want to keep them, never free them, they can be a problem in your local ecosystem. You can also freeze the tub to euthanize them humanely.

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Marlin 22 Rifle Model 60 Review, Comparison And More

For years in rural America, the 22 rifle became a rite of passage for young teens and usually provided their first exposuåre to a real firearm. Once they proved they could responsibly handle a BB or pellet gun, parents often followed up with a shiny 22 rifle for a special birthday or Christmas present. The small-caliber rifle furnished an introduction to hunting squirrels, rabbits and other small game. It also provided hours of enjoyment with target practice and unofficial shooting competitions.

Among the many choices on the market the Marlin 22 rifle proved one of the most popular, especially the Model 60. According to the Marlin Firearms website, the company has sold more than 11 million Model 60 rifles since the manufacturer introduced this version 54 years ago. Marlin Firearms has a venerable history of firearms manufacturing that dates back to its founding in 1870 by John Mahlon Marlin.

How the Marlin Model 60 Works

All 22 rifles shoot a projectile, or cartridge, that is .22 inches in diameter. However, there are different types of this caliber of ammunition including a .22 short, a .22 long and a .22 long rifle. As you might expect the difference in these is the length of the bullet with the .22 long rifle the longest of the three. These are all rimfire cartridges which simply means the primer is located around the rim of the brass casing rather than in the center.

The 22 rifle consists of a shoulder stock to steady the gun; a receiver, or frame, of the gun that houses the firing mechanism; a barrel at least 16 inches long that contains spiral-shaped grooves to put a spin on the bullet for accuracy; a mechanism to advance the bullet into the chamber; and a trigger to fire the ammunition. Within the family of 22 rifles you will find single-shot rifles, lever-action rifles, bolt-action rifles and semi-automatic rifles.

With a semi-automatic 22 rifle, a new bullet advances into the chamber each time you pull the trigger. Some of these rifles load the bullets into a tube underneath the barrel while others store the bullets in a rotary or straight magazine that attaches to the receiver.

The Marlin 22 rifle Model 60, which is a semi-automatic, utilizes a tubular-feed system that only accepts long-rifle ammo. The tube holds 14 bullets at a time, and the user has to reload the magazine inner tube assembly when it becomes empty. There is no way to preload extra tube magazines. You need to pull the trigger each time to advance and shoot the next bullet. When you have fired the last shot the bolt automatically holds open so you can safely check that the chamber is empty.

Specifications and Features of the Model 60

The basic Model 60 provides the small-game hunter and target shooter with an excellent workhorse rifle that will supply years of reliability and quality enjoyment.

• Overall Length: 37-1/2 inches
• Approximate Weight: 5-1/2 pounds
• Barrel Length: 19 inches
• Rifling: 16 grooves of Micro-Groove© Rifling
• Twist Rate: 1:16 inches
• Length of Pull: 13-1/4 inches
• Ammunition: .22 long rifle only
• Magazine: 14-shot tubular with patented closing system
• Stock: Walnut-finish hardwood
• Sights: Adjustable open rear sight, ramp front sight
• Warranty: 5-year limited
• Safety: Cross-bolt

Options

The same basic Model 60 rifle also comes in several stock finishes and stainless steel options. The following choices are available.

• Model 60C Monte Carlo Camo-finish hardwood stock
• Model 60SB Walnut-finish laminate stock and stainless steel
• Model 60SN Black synthetic stock with molded checkering
• Model 60SN w/Scope Black synthetic stock and 4 by 20 mm scope & mounts
• Model 60SS Beautiful two-tone laminate stock and stainless steel

Pros and Cons of the Marlin Model 60

It is unusual when reviewing any type of product to have the pros overwhelmingly outweigh the cons, yet that is the case with the Model 60. Whether you talk with people who have enjoyed a version of the Model 60 for years or use this rifle as a benchmark to measure the performance of similar 22 rifles, the Model 60 stands out as a stellar example of firearms craftsmanship. Here is a list of the positive attributes of this Marlin 22 rifle.

Pros

Accuracy

All the 22 rifles we looked at received excellent marks when it came to accurate shooting. Some models had problems with their shooting mechanisms, but when they worked well they shot with accuracy. In spite of this the Model 60 seems to have an edge in this aspect. Perhaps it is Marlin’s patented Micro-Groove© rifling of the barrel, but a large number of shooters praised the consistently tight target patterns they were able to attain with the Model 60, and many admitted they were not expert marksmen.

Reliability

A lot of rifles deliver most of the time, but the Marlin Model 60 comes through every time. This means it is always ready to go, always on target and never jams no matter what quality or brand of ammunition you put through it. The Model 60 also performs well regardless of weather conditions or the length of time it has remained idle.

Quality

The number of Model 60 rifles Marlin has sold over an extended number of years testifies to the excellence of this renowned firearm. High quality shines through the materials, workmanship and mechanics, and the comments and reviews back this assessment. Marlin does not overlook even the smallest detail, and everything works as promised. Users made many comments about the beauty of the rifles whether they had hardwood, laminate or synthetic stocks.

Selection of Stocks and Barrels

Within the Model 60 family Marlin offers several options of materials used to manufacture the stocks and barrels. Possibilities for the rifle stocks include walnut-finish or Monte Carlo Camo-finish hardwood, walnut-finish or two-tone laminate, or black synthetic stocks with molded sling mounts and checkering. Barrels come in stainless steel or blued steel. Marlin also sells the Model 60SN with a synthetic stock, blued-steel barrel and 4 by 20 mm scope and mounts. In addition, you can now choose from several aftermarket hunting tactical stocks for the Model 60.

Cons

As stated above, there are not a lot of negative aspects to the Model 60, and not everyone would agree the following points qualify as cons when it comes to this rifle. However, here are a few different concerns to note.

Tube-Feed Magazine

We expected to find negative comments about this characteristic of the Model 60, but it turned out to be something of a non-issue. In fact, an amazing number of users not only praised the tube-feed feature but also commented on how much they enjoyed using it. It is a testament to the quality of the Model 60 that nobody registered a complaint about the tube magazine.

Many other 22 rifles use a detachable rotary or straight magazine, and you can purchase extras to have loaded and ready to go when you’ve emptied the one in your gun. If you have any shots left at the end of your hunting excursion you just detach the magazine, checking that the receiver is empty, and put it away for the next time. With the tube-feed magazine, if you have ammo you haven’t used you must remove the inner tube assembly and dump out the extra rounds. This becomes more cumbersome than removing a magazine. Likewise it is more awkward to add cartridges to the tube than to slip in a rotary or straight magazine. However, there are tube speed loaders on the market that make loading the tube easier.

Bolt Release

One reviewer mentioned the bolt release was a little sharp and stiff. Another cautioned to follow reassembly instructions and make sure the bolt is in the back locked position to prevent bending the ejector. This said, the vast majority of users were very pleased with the easy disassembly and reassembly of the Model 60 for cleaning purposes.

Warranty

Marlin offers a 5-year limited warranty to the original purchaser against any defects and will repair or replace the rifle during this period at their discretion. This, of course, excludes any misuse or abuse of the product. Since none of the reviewers experienced any problems with the rifle that necessitated returning the firearm for repair, the warranty doesn’t appear to cause any issues. However, five years is on the low end of the warranties offered by some other manufacturers. Remington offers a limited lifetime warranty, and Mossberg provides a limited 10-year warranty on their products. Ruger does not supply any written warranty, but countless Ruger users chimed in with examples of Ruger immediately addressing any complaints and quickly repairing or replacing a defective product.

Conclusion

When you review a highly respected manufacturer such as Marlin you expect that you will talk about a quality product. Even so, we were surprised at how this Marlin 22 rifle excels in every area and earns the trust and respect of the dedicated hunters and target shooters who faithfully use it. We anticipated the tube-feed magazine would provide negative feedback, but this is not the case. After learning about problems loading and using some of the rotary and straight magazines, the flawless operation of the Model 60 tube magazine becomes even more commendable.

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27 Reasons Why Hunting Is Good for the Environment: Is It Good To Practice?

The man has been hunting wild game since the dawn of time. An animal’s carcass provides meat, pelts, bone and other items that hunters used for survival. Modern man doesn’t normally hunt for survival anymore, but some do. There are estimated to be over 15 million hunters in the United States alone. In this article, we offer 27 reasons why hunting is good for the environment.

Here are The 27 Reasons Why Hunting Is Good

Improve Mental Health

Waiting for a game animal to appear can sometimes take hours. There are no cell phones to answer, no document deadlines, and no meetings to prepare for. For that reason, individuals find it can be very therapeutic to sit among the sounds of nature and let the gentle rush wash over them as they develop a deep connection to the land. The more connected they are, the more they will try to save the environment.

Exercise

Hunters often walk for miles off the beaten path to get to a blind or well-hidden spot in the shrub. In addition, they must carry a weapon (usually 10 or more pounds), food, water, and personal gear. Not only does the walk improve their stamina, but the trudging about on uneven ground also lets hunters become aware at the first sign of any problems with the flora or fauna within their area. Without this information, disease and overpopulation could run rampant.

Build Social Skills

For hundreds of years, parents have taken their sons and daughters out into the wilderness to teach them to hunt. While the action can be physically exhausting, it can also create a bonding as few other experiences can. Walking along with family or friends gives individuals teaching moments that are far away from the hubbub of city life. When bonding occurs within the confines of outdoor spaces, that environment becomes important to all participants, and the ecosystem must be protected.

Relax

Many hunters treasure the time they spend in nature during their hunting expeditions. They may complain about the rain, snow, and cold, but when pressed to explain why they make the trip out into the wilds every year, hunters will almost unanimously explain that they love the peace and relaxation the hunt provides. With the intake of all that almost pure air, it would be difficult not to relax in the pristine areas hunters seek. Why wouldn’t they want to protect that environment and help develop more areas just like it?

Eat Healthy Food

Hunting game meat is typically the quest of the hunter, and that means bringing home food that is free of man-made chemicals and antibiotics. That is why wild game meat is considered healthier for consumption than commercially bred meat. For those seeking a lean-meat hunt, protecting the environment becomes an important part of their daily life in order to protect their future hunts and their food source.

Experience Survival

Although it can be difficult for some to understand, there are individuals who push themselves to survive off the land. Their desire is to take responsibility for their own food by hunting the animals they eat. Those individuals do not like the separation found between the grocery store and the table. Peace comes to them when they take down that buck or bear on the land they strive diligently to protect and improve.

Acknowledge Kinship 

Hunters often believe they have a kinship with wildlife. Many even have rituals they perform to honor the life given up by the animal at their feet. This doesn’t make them silly; it reconnects them with our ancestors who performed those same rites long ago. Those hunters don’t leave debris after a hunt, because they respect the land and want to improve it. They also bury the carcass or take it with them instead of polluting the land.

Participate in Life

Hunters wander through trees, scrubs, waterways, and worn paths. They venture into rain, snow, and dangerous winds. They choose to take these adventures because they want to create the next chapter of their life instead of letting someone dictate how they can spend their next hours. Hunters are strong individuals who want to be their own persons and improve their environment while doing so. For them, knowing the pristine area will be there next year is as essential as their next breath.

Control Overpopulation

Maintaining animal population control is a key component in maintaining a well-balanced ecosystem. An example is the elk in North American that became overpopulated and upset the ecosystem by stripping the available vegetation. As the natural grasses disappeared, so did other populations of smaller animals. By removing the excess number of deer, the smaller creatures were able to return and bring nature back into balance.

Cull Invasive Species

Many times throughout history, humans have unknowingly added invasive species of animals into nature. The results are often devastating. Hogs, pythons, and rabbits are all examples of good intentions gone wrong. Without the culling of these dangerous, quickly multiplying predators, the balance of nature would be broken, and many at-risk species would disappear.

Preserve Ecosystems

As man expands, the uninhabited spaces available for wild animals slowly disappears. But hunters must purchase licenses and pay special taxes that provide much-needed monies to continually support and rebuild wild animal habitats. This helps maintain the balance of the ever-shrinking ecosystem.

Restrict Hunting 

Because each hunter must purchase a license, the area being hunted is traced, as is the species being tracked within the hunt. Additionally, all hunters do not get animals during their allowed hunting period, but those who do must report which animal they shot, and where. This helps conservationists to track herds and limits hunting in areas seen as unbalanced.

Protect Vehicles and Lives

When a population of any animal gets out of control, the first sign is what some often call “road kill.” These are animals that have been killed by speeding vehicles. As populations grow, the need for food expands, and human roads get into the way of the herd’s food source. Millions of dollars are spent each year to repair vehicles damaged by large and small animals that are hit crossing busy roads. Sometimes those accidents can become fatal. Hunters can help reduce the population sizes and thus keep the animals in secluded habitats. By doing this, they can also protect human life.

Property Being Protected

Sometimes populations grow so rapidly that the animals can do excessive damage to homes, crops, and stored food supplies. This is true of elephants, rabbits, and mice. While hunters don’t search for mice, the money they spend each year does maintain habitats for the predators of both rabbits and mice. The healthy and abundant habitats for elephants are also important to protect both human life and food.

Protect the Land

As populations of animals grow, so do their appetites, and the grasses, flowers, and herbs that allow the increase of birds, insects, and small animals are quickly depleted. As the grasses disappear, the rains can cause severe soil erosion and even landslides. By keeping animals in check, the land’s grasses are allowed to take root and protect the soil.

Flora Protected

Hungry animals can deplete a field of wildflowers within hours. As the wildflowers disappear, so do the bees and butterflies, and with their disappearance comes implications about human survival. In a viscous circle, the smallest of creatures pollinate our food to keep us alive, so hunters work to keep them alive.

Increase Tourism

Hunters often travel far from home to find that special animal. That means they often need somewhere to sleep, food to eat, and entertainment. Small towns near popular rural hunting sites can benefit greatly by the influx of hunting money.

Employment for Services Increase 

Hunters receive information and permission to hunt from state and government agencies that employ park rangers, guides, game wardens, and numerous other specialists who help keep the ecosystem in balance. The agencies also employ analysts, forecasters, and specialists to account for the numbers of animals in various habitats.

Increase Employment for Goods

Hunters need equipment such as bows, guns, tents, blinds, tree stands, fishing poles, and camping gear. Of course, each of these items must be manufactured, which means employment. As each of these employees becomes curious and aware of the natural world, they will understand how it is affected by humans and that it must be protected.

Received Increase Funds 

As previously mentioned, hunters pay taxes. These excise taxes are used for animal surveys, wildlife studies, animal management, habitat rebuilding, and sanctuary development. Last year the tax amounted to hundred of millions in the United States alone.

Support Conservation Groups

Hunters donated another couple hundred million to conservation groups last year in an effort to develop strategies to protect endangered species. Whitetail deer, grouse, pheasants, and ducks are among the many species that have had their numbers depleted. This donation money helps to focus on the health and populations of those depleted animals.

Restore Wetlands and Forests

Hunters have donated enough money in the last decade to restore 45,000 acres of wetlands. They have also helped replant forests, restore grasslands, redevelop watersheds, and purchase property to establish protected environments for wildlife development.

Improve Education

In 2017 officials, paid by hunter’s donations, were able to oversee 200,000 volunteers who focused their time and energy in helping with efforts to protect endangered wildlife. These same officials were able to go to schools, non-profits groups, and religious meetings to educate non-hunters about wildlife conservation and the need for hunting programs.

Create Habitats

Hunters provided the government with enough money to purchase and maintain 4 million acres in the United States. Also, 40 million acres have been set aside by private individuals as wildlife habitats. This is about the size of the state of Washington and has allowed for ducks, deer, wild turkeys, and buffalo to come back from the brink of extinction to herds of millions.

Renew Wildlife

State wildlife agencies get approximately 60 percent of their funding from hunter-paid taxes, fees, and licenses. With this money, trees are planted, waters are protected, and dwindling animal populations are renewed.

Control Predators

Bears, wolves, coyotes, and cougars often keep to themselves and exist in their ecosystem. As their populations explode, they can harm humans. Hunters keep predators under control by regulating their food source; therefore, their numbers rarely surge out of control anymore.

Expand Senses

Hunters are not spectators; they are participants in nature. While out there in the wild, they learn how to track, what scat means, how to read the land, and which animals are active when. They learn to observe, listen, and feel. They can tell the difference between the rustling wind and a scurrying rabbit. All this comes by expanding a sense of acuity. As their acuity grows, so does their need to protect the precious area and animals they have grown to love.

What Is Hunting?

Hunting has been defined as the ending of an animal’s life for food or sport. However, many activists include fishing as a form of hunting.

Who Hunts?

Men, women, and children of all ages across the world hunt each year. Currently, there are an estimated 50 million hunters across the planet, with 15 million in the United States alone.

Why Hunting Is Good and Important?

For some, hunting provides food. For others, hunting is a sport. Both are economically important to many people, such as family members, retailers, and governmental agencies. Large amounts of monies are spent each year on camping gear, hunting weapons, survival food, and outdoor clothing to provide the hunter with what they need for their trek. Hunters also provide a great deal of money to state and government agencies in the form of taxes and fees, which puts in place an amazing amount of environmental protections.

Preserves Forests and Wild Areas

Hunting also preserves forests and wild areas. High densities of any animal can destroy the ecosystem and can have a huge environmental impact for many years after. If forest trees are destroyed by deer, for example, runoff of soil could result in decades of damage to farmlands just below the forested areas. As the trees die off, the carbon dioxide would grow and expand, and the seed trees would be unable to grow in the barren soil because of the now hot and unfriendly environment. Hunters can control the deer densities and keep carbon dioxide out of the environment.

Furthermore, the more individual hunts, the closer they become to the land. They become the first to see recovery, disease, or pollution. They are also the first to report these signs to specialized agencies that can take the necessary steps to bring the land back or protect the beginning of recovery.

Do Animals Become Extinct Because of Hunters?

While some people vilify hunters, most hunters follow a strict code of ethics and rules that allow them to continue to enjoy their desired recreation. Hunters are often blamed for the extinction of various animal species, but the truth is that most of the extinct creatures died off after environmental changes occurred. Hunters had nothing to do with their demise.

How Do Hunters Impact the Environment?

Modern hunters recognize that protections for land and animals are one of the few ways to help maintain a balance and keep nature preserved. They understand that the money they donate and provide in licensing fees is vital to the maintenance of wetlands, deserts, forests, and rainforests across the globe. Most hunters are staunch environmentalists because protecting their favorite playground will let them enjoy their favorite recreational activity as well.

As hunters become more aware of habitat destruction and urban sprawl, they are also growing closer to, and often joining with, the public environmental activists and ecosystem green leaders. Hunters love their wild environments and strive to protect and improve the land.

Reasons Why Hunting Is Good

When humans take care of themselves, they also take care of the environment around them. Hunting can offer individuals the chance to improve themselves, take care of their surroundings, and improve the economy. Each of these factors is intertwined with one another to provide humanity with a positive reason to promote hunting as environmentally necessary and sound. Hunting is good for the environment for the above reasons.

Conclusion

In today’s electronic lifestyle, there is often a disdain for hunters and the sport of hunting. A few people even vilify the hunter and want to force their own personal beliefs and feelings about hunting on others. It is important to be dispassionate when discussing hunting and its benefits. Without the money gleaned from hunters, many delicate ecosystems would be at the mercy of encroachment by man, poachers, or other environmental disturbances.

Create Wildlife Sanctuaries

Hunters provide the means to create wildlife sanctuaries, to conduct research, and to bring endangered species back to life. The next time a trophy photo comes across your phone, tablet, or laptop, try to remember that without legal hunters putting money into your ecosystem, some wildlife you know and love might become extinct.

Hunters are good for the environment. They protect the lands they love by providing the money necessary to shelter, rebuild, and improve the precious acres. If anyone ever asks you why hunting is good for the environment, you now have answers to give them.

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Marlin 22 Rifle Model 60 Review: Learn Its Rating In Accuracy

For years in rural America, the Marlin 22 rifle became a rite of passage for young teens and usually provided their first exposuåre to a real firearm. Once they proved they could responsibly handle a BB or pellet gun, parents often followed up with a shiny Marlin 22 rifle for a special birthday or Christmas present. The small-caliber rifle furnished an introduction to hunting squirrels, rabbits, and other small game. It also provided hours of enjoyment with target practice and unofficial shooting competitions.

Among the many choices on the market, the Marlin 22 rifle proved one of the most popular, especially the Model 60. According to the Marlin Firearms website, the company has sold more than 11 million Model 60 rifles since the manufacturer introduced this version 54 years ago. Marlin Firearms has a venerable history of firearms manufacturing that dates back to its founding in 1870 by John Mahlon Marlin.

Marlin Model 60Pros & Cons

PROS

• Accuracy
• Reliability
• Quality
• Selection of Stocks and Barrels
• Value

CONS

• Tube-Feed Magazine
• Detachable Rotary
• Bolt Release
• Warranty

Marlin Model 60​

How the Marlin Model 60 Works

All 22 rifles shoot a projectile, or cartridge, that is .22 inches in diameter. However, there are different types of this caliber of ammunition including a .22 short, a .22 long and a .22 long rifle. As you might expect the difference in these is the length of the bullet with the .22 long rifle the longest of the three. These are all rimfire cartridges which simply means the primer is located around the rim of the brass casing rather than in the center.

The Marlin 22 rifle consists of a shoulder stock to steady the gun; a receiver, or frame, of the gun that houses the firing mechanism; a barrel at least 16 inches long that contains spiral-shaped grooves to put a spin on the bullet for accuracy; a mechanism to advance the bullet into the chamber; and a trigger to fire the ammunition. Within the family of 22 rifles, you will find single-shot rifles, lever-action rifles, bolt-action rifles and semi-automatic rifles.

With a semi-automatic Marlin 22 rifle, a new bullet advances into the chamber each time you pull the trigger. Some of these rifles load the bullets into a tube underneath the barrel while others store the bullets in a rotary or straight magazine that attaches to the receiver.

Automatic

The Marlin 22 rifle Model 60, which is a semi-automatic, utilizes a tubular-feed system that only accepts long-rifle ammo. The tube holds 14 bullets at a time, and the user has to reload the magazine inner tube assembly when it becomes empty. There is no way to preload extra tube magazines. You need to pull the trigger each time to advance and shoot the next bullet. When you have fired the last shot the bolt automatically holds open so you can safely check that the chamber is empty.

Specifications and Features of the Model 60

The basic Model 60 provides the small-game hunter and target shooter with an excellent workhorse rifle that will supply years of reliability and quality enjoyment.

• Overall Length: 37-1/2 inches
• Approximate Weight: 5-1/2 pounds
• Barrel Length: 19 inches
• Rifling: 16 grooves of Micro-Groove© Rifling
• Twist Rate: 1:16 inches
• Length of Pull: 13-1/4 inches
• Ammunition: .22 long rifle only
• Magazine: 14-shot tubular with patented closing system
• Stock: Walnut-finish hardwood
• Sights: Adjustable open rear sight, ramp front sight
• Warranty: 5-year limited
• Safety: Cross-bolt

The following choices are available.

1. Model 60C Monte Carlo Camo-finish hardwood stock 

2. Model 60SB Walnut-finish laminate stock and stainless steel

3. Model 60SN Black synthetic stock with molded checkering 

4. Model 60SN w/Scope Black synthetic stock and 4 by 20 mm scope & mounts 

5. Model 60SS Beautiful two-tone laminate stock and stainless steel

Marlin Model 60 Pros & Cons Summary

It is unusual when reviewing any type of product to have the pros overwhelmingly outweigh the cons, yet that is the case with the Model 60. Whether you talk with people who have enjoyed a version of the Model 60 for years or use this rifle as a benchmark to measure the performance of similar 22 rifles, the Model 60 stands out as a stellar example of firearms craftsmanship. Here is a list of the positive attributes of this Marlin 22 rifle.

Pros

Accuracy

All the 22 rifles we looked at received excellent marks when it came to accurate shooting. Some models had problems with their shooting mechanisms, but when they worked well they shot with accuracy. In spite of this, the Model 60 seems to have an edge in this aspect. Perhaps it is Marlin’s patented Micro-Groove© rifling of the barrel, but a large number of shooters praised the consistently tight target patterns they were able to attain with the Model 60, and many admitted they were not expert marksmen.

Reliability

A lot of rifles deliver most of the time, but the Marlin Model 60 comes through every time. This means it is always ready to go, always on target and never jams no matter what quality or brand of ammunition you put through it. The Model 60 also performs well regardless of weather conditions or the length of time it has remained idle.

Quality

The number of Model 60 rifles Marlin has sold over an extended number of years testifies to the excellence of this renowned firearm. High quality shines through the materials, workmanship and mechanics, and the comments and reviews back this assessment. Marlin does not overlook even the smallest detail, and everything works as promised. Users made many comments about the beauty of the rifles whether they had hardwood, laminate or synthetic stocks.

Selection of Stocks and Barrels

Within the Model 60 family, Marlin offers several options of materials used to manufacture the stocks and barrels. Possibilities for the rifle stocks include walnut-finish or Monte Carlo Camo-finish hardwood, walnut-finish or two-tone laminate, or black synthetic stocks with molded sling mounts and checkering. Barrels come in stainless steel or blued steel. Marlin also sells the Model 60SN with a synthetic stock, blued-steel barrel and 4 by 20 mm scope and mounts. In addition, you can now choose from several aftermarket hunting tactical stocks for the Model 60.

Cons

As stated above, there are not a lot of negative aspects to the Model 60, and not everyone would agree the following points qualify as cons when it comes to this rifle. However, here are a few different concerns to note.

Tube-Feed Magazine

We expected to find negative comments about this characteristic of the Model 60, but it turned out to be something of a non-issue. In fact, an amazing number of users not only praised the tube-feed feature but also commented on how much they enjoyed using it. It is a testament to the quality of the Model 60 that nobody registered a complaint about the tube magazine.

Detachable Rotary

Many other 22 rifles use a detachable rotary or straight magazine, and you can purchase extras to have loaded and ready to go when you’ve emptied the one in your gun. If you have any shots left at the end of your hunting excursion you just detach the magazine, checking that the receiver is empty, and put it away for the next time. With the tube-feed magazine, if you have ammo you haven’t used you must remove the inner tube assembly and dump out the extra rounds. This becomes more cumbersome than removing a magazine. Likewise, it is more awkward to add cartridges to the tube than to slip in a rotary or straight magazine. However, there are tube speed loaders on the market that make loading the tube easier.

Bolt Release

One reviewer mentioned the bolt release was a little sharp and stiff. Another cautioned to follow reassembly instructions and make sure the bolt is in the back locked position to prevent bending the ejector. This said the vast majority of users were very pleased with the easy disassembly and reassembly of the Model 60 for cleaning purposes.

Warranty

Marlin offers a 5-year limited warranty to the original purchaser against any defects and will repair or replace the rifle during this period at their discretion. This, of course, excludes any misuse or abuse of the product. Since none of the reviewers experienced any problems with the rifle that necessitated returning the firearm for repair, the warranty doesn’t appear to cause any issues. However, five years is on the low end of the warranties offered by some other manufacturers. Remington offers a limited lifetime warranty, and Mossberg provides a limited 10-year warranty on their products. Ruger does not supply any written warranty, but countless Ruger users chimed in with examples of Ruger immediately addressing any complaints and quickly repairing or replacing a defective product.

Conclusion

When you review a highly respected manufacturer such as Marlin you expect that you will talk about a quality product. Even so, we were surprised at how this Marlin 22 rifle excels in every area and earns the trust and respect of the dedicated hunters and target shooters who faithfully use it. We anticipated the tube-feed magazine would provide negative feedback, but this is not the case. After learning about problems loading and using some of the rotary and straight magazines, the flawless operation of the Model 60 tube magazine becomes even more commendable. 

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How to Make a Laser – Assisted Blowgun An Effective Weapon and Hunting Tool

It is hard to track when and where blowguns actually originated but historians believe that it was already used by primitive tribes during the old times to hunt small animals and to protect themselves from bigger wild animals. It is a good weapon for hunting small games like birds and rabbits because it is silent and will not alert your target. Many types of blowguns can be purchased in the market but you can also make your own for a cheaper price. You can even make a laser-assisted one which gives both power and accuracy. Making your own laser-assisted blowgun is quite easy and the materials you will need can be found in your household. Do you want to try and make your own laser-assisted blowgun? Let me help you with that. In this article I have made easy step by step instructions on how to make a laser-assisted blowgun. But before we proceed let us first know some basics.

What is a laser-assisted blowgun?

A blowgun is a simple ranged weapon which consists of a pipe and a projectile like darts, seeds, or pellets. It works by putting the projectile inside the pipe and blowing into it. How powerful your blowgun can be will depend on the strength of your respiratory muscles and the vital capacity of your lungs. For the laser-assisted blowgun, you will just need to attach a laser into your pipe that will point to your target so that you will fire with more accuracy.What is a laser-assisted blowgun?

The basic parts of a laser-assisted blowgun

Knowing the basic parts of your blowgun will make it easier for you to understand how to make a laser-assisted blowgun. Here are the parts and some simple descriptions.

Pipe

This is the main body of your blowgun where your projectile will go into and out. In the ancient times, it is usually made of bamboo, wood, or cane but now, you can also make it using a PVC pipe. When using bamboo or cane, the wood is heated and carefully bent to straighten them while for the woods which are not hollow inside, they are cut in half, carved a hole inside, and then put back together. Blowgun pipes’ length may vary but longer ones tend to propel your projectile faster.

Projectile

This is your blowgun’s “ammunition”. It can be darts, seeds, pellets, or other materials depending on what you will use it for. Smaller darts tend to propel faster and are easier to shoot while longer ones tend to penetrate deeper and do more damage.

Laser

This serves as the pointer of your blowgun which will help you in shooting your target with accuracy. For the laser that you will use in making your laser-assisted blowgun, you can purchase one from an office supplies store. You may also use one with a flashlight so that you can also use it in the dark.

Quiver

This is where you will keep your blowgun’s projectile. It is attached to your pipe so that it can be easily accessed.

How to make a laser-assisted blowgun?

Before we proceed on the steps on how to make a laser-assisted blowgun, here are some materials that you may need:

• PVC pipe/bamboo/cane/any straight, hollow wood

• Laser pointer

• Nails

• Glue gun

• Screw

• Scissors

• Saw

• Party hat or any cone

• Electric tape

• Duct tapes with designs

• Foam pipe insulation

• Paper

• Reducing coupling

Step 1. Prepare the pipe

Take a PVC pipe with a half inch diameter and cut it to a length that is comfortable for you to carry. Make sure that it is not too long that it will bend because this will affect the route and trajectory of your projectile. Next, get a reducing coupling with a smaller side that is fit to your pipe and attach it to your pipe. Tighten the attachment to secure it down by hammering it down. this will serve as the “mouthpiece” of your blowgun. For a great finish, you may design your pipe by using a decorative duct tape. Just cut a length the same as your pipe, lay the non-sticky side on the table, then place your pipe into the sticky side of the tape and roll the pipe into the tape. Secure the tape by pressing them with your fingers. You may also use paint to design your pipe.

Step 2. Make the darts

For the darts, you may use a party hat or any cone as a shape-reference. Wrap the paper in the party hat making a cone shape and secure it with tape. Cut the cone into a size that will fit into your pipe. Next, insert a nail or a screw through your cone. For the nail, the head must be inside the cone while for the screw, it should be outside since its purpose is for glass breaking. Also, you may use long or short nails depending on your purpose. Secure the nail or screw in the paper cone by applying glue inside using a glue gun. You now have two different types of darts.

Step 3. Create the quiver

For your quiver, you may use a foam pipe insulation that fits your pipe. Cut the foam crosswise to around three fourth of an inch thick. Make two of these doughnut-shaped rings. Next cover the outside part with electric tape to add to its durability. Bore holes on one of the rings using a hot nail. It’s up to you how many holes you want to make. Just make sure that there is enough space between them so that the foam will be able to hold the darts when they are placed.

Step 4. Attach the quiver

Attach the quiver by inserting the two rings into the pipe. Place them a bit more inclined to the side of your mouthpiece and make sure that the one with holes is on top of the other ring in reference to your mouthpiece. Place them around half of an inch away from each other. Lastly, put your darts in your quiver by inserting them into the hole and pinning them into the foam below to secure.

Step 5. Attach the laser

Using a hot glue, attach the laser on top of your pipe placing it slightly closer to the opposite end of the mouthpiece. Make sure that the laser is pointing away from the mouthpiece and it is aligned well with your pipe to ensure accuracy. Next, fasten the laser with plastic zips to make sure that it is steady. You may also use electric tape but remember not to cover the switch. Also take into consideration that your laser may ran out of battery after some time so attach it in such a way that you can easily change its battery.

Conclusion

A blowgun can be a good and effective instrument for hunting small game animals and attaching a laser to it is a good way to greatly improve its accuracy. Although blowguns can easily be purchased in the market, it can also be a good decision to make your own because it is cheaper and it is just very easy to make. To add to that, looking at your own piece of work can be very rewarding especially if it is well-made. So why not try? In this article, I have written steps on how to make a laser-assisted blowgun to guide you. I hope this helps!

Did you like this article? If so, please leave a comment below and share this with your friends. Thank you for reading!

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Survival Shelters: 10 Best Designs and How to Build Them?

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How to Make a Knife: DIY on 3 Different Types of Knives

There are many different types of knives, each, with their own specific purposes. There are chef knives, utility knives, boning knives, hunting knives, and many more. In hunting three types of knives that can be very convenient and useful to bring are tactical knife, survival knife, and hunting knife. As a hunter, being able to make our own knives which we can use for our future hunting activities is not only a very rewarding task but it is also a very productive way to use our spare time. Think about having a very enjoying and rewarding recreational time for yourself while having a product that is customized for you that you can use for a long time – exciting right? Then let’s put that excitement into work. In this article, I will discuss how to make a knife: DIY on 3 different types of knives. We will use the three types of hunting knives that I have mentioned above. Before we proceed, let us first have some knowledge about these three knives and the materials that we are going to use to make them.

Tactical Knife

A tactical knife is a knife that is designed to be used in extreme situations which may or may have a military or combat feature. It is a comfortable knife that you can draw quickly and can be used in a variety of tasks. We can say that a good tactical knife can fit into your pocket or have some type of clip, durable, and does not have a lot of weak points. It can also either be a fixed blade knife or a folding knife.

Survival Knife

A survival knife is designed to be used in order for you to survive in case you are left alone in the wild with few or nothing with you. It should be able to perform a lot of tasks like cutting, slicing, digging, piercing, whittling, shaving, dressing, skinning, and many others. You can use it for starting a fire, making a shelter, bandaging a wound, and hunting for food. In general, the key characteristics of a survival knife are versatility and strength. It must be a full tang knife to emphasize strength and durability.

Hunting Knife

A hunting knife is used to prepare the game caught in hunting by skinning and cutting, thus, it’s design is optimized for slicing and cutting rather than for stabbing. It has a single sharpened edge and usually has a curved blade so that you can smoothly separate the hide from the meat of your game. Some hunting knives, however, have blades with both a straight and a curved part to facilitate both skinning and cutting meat efficiently. A hunting knife can either be a fixed blade knife or a folding knife.

Basic Materials and Tools that You Will Need

Before we proceed to how to make a knife: DIY on 3 different types of knives, let us first look on the materials that we will need.

Steel

This is what basically makes your knife and is a very important material to consider. When choosing a steel for your knife, you should consider the type of knife you are making and its purpose so that you will know the characteristics that you should pay attention to. The five key properties of steel are hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, wear resistance, and edge retention. The common knife steel types are tool steel which is hard, carbon steel which is tough and durable, and stainless steel which is corrosion-resistant.

Handle Material

Choosing your knife’s handle material depends on the purpose of your knife but it also depends on the preference of the user. It is good to choose a handle material that will be most comfortable for you to use and is also durable and with good grip. There are a lot of knife handle materials that you can choose from, each, with their own pros and cons. Examples are stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, carbon fiber, fiberglass, leather, bone, and wood.

Angle Grinder

An angle grinder is a tool used to grind, polish, or cut metal or other materials. You will use this tool mainly to cut and shape your knife. It uses a variety of wheels or discs like diamond wheels and abrasive wheels. If you do not have an angle grinder, you may use a hack saw for cutting but that would require more work.

Mill File, Sand Paper, Wood Rasp, and Sharpening Stone

You will need a variety of files from rough to fine and a sand paper in a variety of grits for finishing your blade. You will need the wood rasp in shaping your wood handle and the sharpening stone in sharpening your blade once your knife is finished.

Drill

You will use the drill to make holes on where you will attach the handle.

Clamp

You will use this for holding your knife during the heat treatment.

Heat Source

You will need a heat source to heat treat your knife. For this process, you may use a grill and hardwood charcoal. Make sure that the charcoals are super hot before immersing your blade.

Epoxy

You will use the epoxy to glue the blade and the handle together.

How to Make a Knife: DIY on 3 Different Types of Knives

One thing that we should know on how to make a knife: DIY on 3 different types of knives is that basically, the steps in making these knives are just the same; they only differ in designing the template and shaping the blade and handle. With that in mind, we will just proceed with the basic steps in making a knife and emphasize each key point in making each knife.

1. Design your knife and draw the template

Design your knife and draw the template – Photo credit: i.pinimg.com

Making your knife’s template is a very important step in making your knife since it will be the basis of what your finished knife will look like. You should be very careful and detailed in making your knife’s template and make sure to consider all the aspects of the knife and what you want your knife to become including its type, length, design, and purpose. Also, it is important that you make the template the same or close to the actual size that you want your knife to be.

In making your tactical knife’s template, bear in mind that what we want is something that is easy to carry. A good size of the knife would be around 8-9 inches. Consider the size of your hand when deciding the length of the handle. You may trace your template in a piece of cardboard for you to have some idea on the feel of the length of your knife. For the design of the blade and handle, it is up to you as long as it serves its purpose. For me, a good design would be something with a half-serrated blade with a good cutting edge and a strong, thick point.

For your survival knife, a good design would be something with a handle that fits well in your hand, a blade with a thickness of around 1/8 to 1/4 inches, and a total length of around 9-11 inches. It will also be good if it will be a full tang knife which has a fixed blade, straight edge, and either a clip point or a drop point. For the steel, high carbon or stainless are good choices.

Lastly, for your hunting knife, I recommend that you design your blade with a drop point, a thick spine, a bevel with around 20-30 degrees angle, and a choil that matches the size of your fingers. The knife should also be a full tang.

2. Trace the blade template to a piece of steel and cut the steel

Trace the blade template to a piece of steel and cut the steel – Photo credit: http://2.bp.blogspot.com

Using a permanent marker, trace your designed template on your chosen piece of metal. It is better if the piece of metal is not too large compared to the size of your knife so it will be easier to cut later. Also, make sure that you include the tang since the blade and the tang are in one piece. Using a hacksaw or an angle grinder, cut the outline on the metal. Leave a bit of allowance when cutting to leave a room for some adjustments when finishing the blade.

3. Finish the blade and drill a hole in the tang

Finish the blade and drill a hole in the tang – Photo credit: http://poorfolkbows.com

Using your angle grinder, make the bevel of your knife by grinding the edge side to side taking into account the design of your blade. You may also use files and sandpapers to make a nice finish and polish your blade. Start with a rough grade sand paper going to a finer grade. Make sure that the whole blade is polished and the bevel is grinded well. For the serrations of your tactical knife, use the appropriate size of files and make sure that you make the spacing between the serrations equal. Also, make the serrations before grinding the bevel. After you have finished your blade, drill some rivet holes in the tang where you are going to connect your handle later.

4. Heat treat the blade

Heat treat the blade – Photo credit: anitachowdry.files.wordpress.com

In making a good knife, more important than the type of steel that you use is the heat treatment. For your heat treatment, you may use a grill and hardwood charcoals. Also, prepare your quenching bath. You may use food grade quenching oils, mineral oils, or commercial quenching oils for this. When heat treating your blade, you can say that it is ready for quenching when it is already non-magnetic. When your blade turns orange in color, put it out the flame and check if it will still be magnetized, if it is already non-magnetic, put it back the heat, make sure that the whole blade has become orange colored, then immediately but carefully dunk it in the quenching bath. Allow the bubbling and hissing of the oil to subside then cool it in open air. After this, temper your knife in the oven for an hour and cool it to room temperature. Repeat these three times. The temperature of the oven depends on the type of steel you use but it usually ranges from 350 to 850 °F. Make sure to use clamps when handling the knife and wear protection like gloves and helmet.

5. Make and attach the handle

Make and attach the handle – Photo credit: http://www.hobbynerd.com

After we are done with the blade, it is now time for us to make the handle. In this article, we are going to use hard wood as the material for making the handle of the three knives. For the tactical knife, your handle must have a steady and comfortable grip in both forward and reverse grips. Don’t put grooves and contours on the handle that forces you to hold it in any way. For the survival knife, your handle must fit well in your hands and must have a flat pommel. You may put some grooves for better grip but make sure that it fits comfortably to your hand. For the hunting knife, make sure that your handle has a groove that comfortably fits your hand, a nice bolster, and a pommel. To make and attach your handle, get a piece of wood a bit larger than the size of your tang with the thickness that you would want your handle to have, shape them the way you want, drill the rivet holes using your tang as basis, split the wood into two equal parts, then attach the handle into the tang using some rivets or pins and epoxy. Make sure that the epoxy sets well. Use clamps to hold the handle and the tang together while waiting for the glue to set. You may use wood rasps in shaping your handle and sand paper in polishing them to make a good finish.

6. Sharpen the blade

harpen the blade – Photo credit: icdn9.themanual.com

It is very important to sharpen your blade since it satisfies the main purpose a knife – to cut. Use a sharpening stone to sharpen your blade by holding your blade in a 20° angle and lightly scraping through the stone in a cutting motion. Do this in both side of your blade. Make sure to wet your sharpening stone with oil from time to time. Also, if you have a double sided sharpening stone, use the coarse side first then the fine side after for a better finish. Make sure to finish both side of the blade first before moving on to the finer side. To test if your knife is sharp enough, hold a piece of paper with one hand and slice through it with your knife. Your knife must smoothly cut through the paper.

7. Polish the blade and handle

Polish the blade and handle – Photo credit: http://www.instructables.com

Now that your knife is finished, you can give your blade and handle a final polish and add some final touches. You may even put some customized carvings or design on the blade if you want.

Conclusion

A knife is a very important tool for a hunter. It serves a lot of purpose and is sure very handy in a lot of situations. Buying a good knife can be an exciting activity for a hunter but making your own knife gives an entirely different excitement and feeling. Although making a knife is not easy, it is possible for you to make your own given the right tools, materials, and knowledge. Just bring your passion and enthusiasm with you and your good to go. It may take time and effort but the product is surely rewarding. That is why to help you with making your own knife, I have written steps on how to make a knife: DIY on 3 different types of knives in this article. I hope this article helped you!

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Interesting Ways to Know How Long Do Wild Turkeys Live?

Being a favored food of the Native Americans for as early as the 1500’s, wild turkeys are one of the games that hunters sought after the most. Wild turkeys symbolize abundance and is often served as the main course representing successful harvest in the North America. As turkey hunters, it is important that we know some facts about our game. It does not only give us advantage in hunting but it also ignites our interest on our prey. In this article, I will discuss some fascinating facts about wild turkeys and provide information on how long do wild turkeys live.

Some Facts about Wild Turkeys

History

The wild turkey, Meleagris gallopovo, is one of the two species of turkeys which is a permanent resident of Pennsylvania’s woods and mountains and is native only to North America. This species was nearly eradicated in the 1900’s because of excessive hunting and destruction of their woodland habitat, however, their population has been revived when people reintroduce the species to areas wherein the woodlands are recovering.

Appearance

Adult wild turkeys range from around 36-44 inches in length from the tip of the beak to the tip of the tail. They have featherless blue heads, long necks, fan-shaped tails, and strong and long legs. Compared to males, female wild turkeys are smaller and their feather color is duller. Male wild turkeys’ throats have red wattles and their breasts have dark tufts which are often absent in females. Males also have spurs while females usually have none.

Food

Wild turkeys are omnivorous animals which eat a wide variety of foods. Majority of their diet is vegetable and they are ready to sample many different plants that they can eat. Their type of food also depends on the season where availability of plants and other food sources varies. Examples of foods that they eat are acorns, hickory nuts or beech nuts, seeds and grain, berries, wild grapes, crabapples and other small fruits, small reptiles, fleshy plant parts, plant foliage, grass and tender young leaves or shoots, large insects, and snails, slugs and worms. Wild turkeys also have the habit of gritting sand and small gravel to help them with their digestion.

Habitat

HabitatTypically, you can see wild turkeys foraging on open forest floors, however, you can also find them in grasslands and swamps. Habitat requirements for turkeys are the presence of trees which become their source of food, provide them a place to rest and take cover, and serve as their roost sight during the night. Grasslands are also important as these also become adults and poults source of food and are a good place to forage for insects. Wild turkeys’ habitat must also have moisture since it affects their reproduction and survival directly and indirectly. However, the answer on how long do wild turkeys live depends upon many factors.

Behavior

Wild turkeys spend most of their days foraging. Poults spend around 90 percent of their time feeding. They feed mostly on insects which are better sources of protein than plants. Juveniles and adults, on the other hand, eat a wide variety of food including soft and hard plants, grasses, and insects. Usually, wild turkeys get around by walking, however, when they are threatened, females tend to fly while males tend to run. When courting, males strut, lower their wings, fan their tails, and make non-vocal hums and chump sounds. When the female lays the eggs, the male leaves it to the female to care for the youngs and form a flock. Males breed with multiple mates and form an all-male flock outside the breeding season. At the age of around 2-4 days old, young turkeys begin to dust, preen, and sun their feathers. This is their way to keep their feathers in good condition. At 14-28 days old, poults begin to roost in trees. This is part of wild turkeys’ behavior that helps them avoid predators.

How Long Do Wild Turkeys Live?

A wild turkey has an average life expectancy of around three years, however, some turkeys live much longer and reach 13 or even 15 years. Actually determining how long do wild turkeys live will depend on a lot of factors. Let us look at them one by one.

Factors that affect the life span of wild turkeys

Environment

The environment plays a major role in the life span of turkeys as this is where the food, shelter, and cover for wild turkeys will depend. A change in habitat, in species diversity, species balance, forest age-class and many others may contribute to wild turkeys’ life span due to change in food, shelter, and cover conditions. Unforeseen diseases and increase in predation shortens wild turkeys’ life span.

Weather

Weather has a great effect on wild turkeys’ survival, thus, it is also a determining factor on how long do wild turkeys live. If there is a good weather all year round, the survival rate of wild turkeys is high, however, if there are more extreme whether events, there will be a low rate of their survival, thus, resulting to their shorter life span.

People

Wild turkeys who are exposed to hunting will obviously have shorter life span than those who are not. If, for instance, a person tries to domesticate a wild turkey, the turkey’s life span will largely depend on how this person can manage to raise it successfully.

Gender

Female turkeys have shorter life span than male turkeys. In their natural habitat, turkey hens live for about two to three years in average while gobblers live for about six to seven years.

How to determine the age of a gobbler

A very well-known way to determine a gobbler’s age is by looking at its spurs. According to the Conservation Department index, if your gobbler’s spur is ½” inch and has a rounded tip, it is one year old and is called a jake; if it is between 1/2 and 7/8 inches long and straight, with a blunt tip, it is two years old; if it is between 1 and 1 1/2 inches long, slightly curved, with a pointed tip, it is three years old, and if it is more than 1 1/2 inches long, more curved, and sharp at the tips, it is four years old at the least.

Conclusion

Wild turkeys are very interesting game animals that it was even suggested by Benjamin Franklin to be their national bird. Being a good source of delicious and nutritious food, the Native Americans hunted them and even became a steady food source for them in the past. Today, turkey hunting became an exciting sport which is enjoyed by many hunters. Knowing more about wild turkeys makes hunting them more fun and interesting and one good information to have is how long do wild turkeys live. I hope this article answer that question well and help you gain some fascinating background on wild turkeys.

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